EATING OUT: The best Italian pizza in Nairobi

Pizza has always been among the last things I would order from a restaurant menu, and when I do, it has got to be at an Italian eatery and none in Nairobi boasts a pizzeria quite as fine as Osteria Del Chianti. The branch on Lenana Road in Kilimani is where I often find myself when I’m craving pizza.

This Tuscan-style development features ample parking, a charming courtyard and a gelateria (Italian ice cream shop) from where I have bought some of the best ice cream in town for years.

Now the rambling bungalow that houses Osteria has lost some of its former glory and is visibly run-down with the bathrooms being in a rather shameful state for an establishment of its calibre. Moreover, the service is unremarkable and more than once I have failed to mask my exasperation and only after raising my voice did their team improve my service. This annoys me no end and discourages frequent visits.

Nevertheless, always without fail, their signature appetiser of a delicious Italian flatbread with fresh tomato will be served before you place your order and their massive menu handed out. With an equally large wine and dessert list, there is something for everyone at Osteria.

I only ever have one of two offerings: their gargantuan calzone stuffed full with ham, marinara sauce, mozzarella cheese and mushrooms.  This pizza made from folded focaccia bread is baked in a semi-circle shape so it looks like a fast food pie but tastes quite close to heaven.

My other choice is the gamberi pizza topped with prawns, mozzarella cheese and tomatoes. Seafood pizza is for me the most genius invention and gamberi is one of the best variations. While I would prefer rocket or fresh basil to be added to mine, Osteria do a great job with their very basic recipe. As with all great pizza, the quality of the crust is central to its success and the thin crust of this one is all you could wish for.

It is not so thin as to resemble a biscuit and it is still pliant enough to roll as you wish. The traditional pizza oven is fired with wood to give the crust a nice smoky flavour and slight charring, just how any lover of pizza would like it.

The management at Osteria have a lot of work to do in reclaiming the old grandeur and reputation they held for so long but the one thing you cannot take away from them is that when it comes to authentic Italian cuisine, they are the dons.